The Kral Puncher NP03 pistol is a high power bolt-action rifle that features an adjustable gas chamber. It is chambered in.22 caliber. The power range is adjustable, and the rifling is in a right hand twist with a 30 degree fluting. The synthetic stock has a Weaver rail attachment to mount a scope and accessories.
Forearm mounted Weaver/Picatinny rail for accessories. 1/8″ BSPP fill probe. Lightweight, easy to operate, and highly adjustable, The Kral NP03 PCP Carbine is value-packed at a relatively entry-level price point.
The tactical AR-10 has a 20″ heavy barrel and a 3″ rifled barrel and uses the same basic operating principle as a rifle, but with a magazine holding 10 rounds. It uses the same type of ammunition that is used in a standard rifle, so it should not require any modifications.
- Kral Puncher NP03 PCP Carbine
- Kral Puncher NP03 PCP Carbine Feeling
- Mounting a Scope in a Few Easy Steps
- First Steps to Mounting a Scope
- What to do Next to Easily Mount a Scope
- Mount Your Scope Slowly
- How To Tighten Scope Mount Screws
- Scope Adjust for Wind Drift
- Kral Arms Puncher NP03 Specs
This Kral NP03 has plenty of desirable features beyond the stock. It comes with two spring-loaded magazines, and the smooth side lever action makes it quick to get back into shooting position after a long wait for your target.
The NP03 features a combo rail that allows for both 11mm dovetail rings or weaver rings to be used. Fill the NP03 with enough air for 3 magazines of shots by using the included fill probe, and you’ll enjoy two magazines of shots without needing a refill.
An excellent airgun at a great price, the Kral NP03 Puncher is available in three sizes: the compact.177-caliber model, the standard.22 caliber model and the larger.25-caliber model. Each model features an adjustable choke that helps reduce kick, a rugged synthetic stock and a precision-made barrel for accurate shot placement.
Kral Puncher NP03 PCP Carbine Feeling
I love this refile. It has a good feel and a sweet trigger. The only thing that would have improved this gun is if it came with a case. That way I could have kept it for when I need to get out to the range and take some practice shots with it. I am currently looking at buying one of these.
This will work! I use this with the NP03 when I need to add it into the rear and it works great! It’s also used to connect things to my sound system and to make sure everything is working correctly.
Mounting a Scope in a Few Easy Steps
Mounting a scope on your new air rifle is an easy task. There are few people out there who don’t want to use a rifle scope; being able to see the target, especially if you have poorer eyesight, is a tremendous benefit to any shooter.
When you’re ready to start hunting, what should be the first thing you do? In this article, we’ll take a look at a number of topics including getting your game ready, and how to properly set up and load your gun for the best results.
First Steps to Mounting a Scope
This guide explains how to mount a rifle scope correctly for use on your firearm. The first step is to choose the correct size and style for your application. You can then adjust the scope to your firearm’s requirements.
If you want to be an effective hunter and shooter, you’ll want to be sure to make sure you get a suitable scope that will give you the accuracy and functionality you need. The most common attachment methods are the 3/8th inch dovetail rail and the wider 13/16th inch rail.
For most air rifles, you can use a Weaver or Picatinny rail that is about 5/8ths of an inch wide. This general rule tells you whether a particular Weaver or Picatinny rail can be used in the same rifle as a Picatinny or Weaver rail.
Picatinny mounts, however, will not work on Weaver scope rails.
What to do Next to Easily Mount a Scope
Here’s how to easily mount a scope. Once you have the right combination of rings or one-piece mounts for your rifle, the next step is getting it all put together.
There are lots of products you can use to hold your gun steady while shooting. It can be as simple as a couple of rolled up blankets on the floor. If you don’t have anything like this, you can substitute a couple of rolled-up towels on your kitchen or shop table.
Make sure the rifle is level by holding it plumb in the air. Then, take a drill and set the bases onto the rails using the locking lugs. Weaver and Picatinny bases, by their nature, have locking lugs to prevent the bases from slipping either back or forward.
Dovetail bases are very easy to install, especially if you have the right hardware. You don’t need to worry about the base slipping out of place while you’re hunting or about your scope falling on its end and hitting a rock.
Some rifles equipped with an 11mm dovetail base will not have this hole present. These guns typically have a metal tab located at the back of the rail grooves. In this case, the rearmost ring must be set against this tab to prevent the ring from traveling backward while in use.
The scope rings are typically placed in relation to the locking pin holes on the rail and they work the same whether it’s a Weaver/Picatinny or dovetail rail.
Some rifles have bases that have a very generous eye relief so the scope will move forward and away from your eye. It’s a good idea to test fit the bases in those preferred locations and then set the scope in the base tight to make sure the scope will not move forward and away from your eye when you look through it.
Some screw rings are more shallow than others, and may require the scope to be mounted farther back inside the ring. It’s best to know where things need to be set before you begin tightening the screws in earnest.
You must make sure that the scope is compatible with your gun’s chamber and magazine well.
Mount Your Scope Slowly
Make sure you mount the scope slowly so you do not damage anything. After you begin turning the screws it is important to remember that they must be tightened as if they were big screws, but not ugga-dugga tight.
You should avoid drilling the pilot hole to far from the tip because the shank may break when you try to install the ring. Also make sure to not go through a soft surface, such as asphalt, for safety purposes.
I just got done buying a new set of adjustable wrench (with the correct size bit), and I know in my old set that I bought somewhere between 10 and 20 years ago, it was the right torque driver.
If you’re like me and don’t have a torque driver, just get the bottom screws of the base tight using your index and middle fingers. I don’t use my ring and pinkie fingers. It works fine without them.
Don’t lose your temper. A firm grip is a very personal thing, and it’s all about feel. If you’re shaking or loosening up a bit, your fist will probably feel flabby to the recipient. Keep your cool, and don’t be surprised if they back off.
You will keep the cap on the lens from beginning to end while focusing. So you need to get it right the first time by lining it up properly.
How To Tighten Scope Mount Screws
Installing the mounting ring caps is very easy to mess up. Even though there are many different types of cap sizes, you should proceed with caution so that even pressure is placed across the surface of the scope tube.
Make sure you don’t start with a screw and use your fingers to tighten it. If you start each of the screws and turn them down with your fingers, you’re safe. Just be careful with your finger tips because if the scope is in the tube and you accidentally crush the tube, that’s it. It’s done.
Once the head of the screws are getting close to the top of the cap, slow down and make sure the cap has an even amount of clearance on each side of the ring set. If one side has a larger gap than the other, back off the narrow side and tighten the larger side until the gap is even on both sides.
My favorite cap types are 6, 8, and 10 screw caps. I find that I get better results from the 6 screw caps if installed by threading the middle set of screws first, leaving the outside two sets of screws loose.
The gap is set, but it needs to be checked for unevenness before being tightened. Carefully follow the same steps as above and the gap should be even when done.
There’s not much difference between this mount and the one I used to own. They both work well, but this one allows for more adjustment on the rear ring. You can turn the rear ring to any position you want while the other one only allows for adjustment between forward and aft, which is a small limitation.
Scope Adjust for Wind Drift
If you’re not using a scope that automatically adjusts for wind drift (or if you just don’t trust your ability to do so), you’ll need to manually adjust the scope. This involves picking up the rifle, aiming at a known object or point in the distance, and then adjusting the reticle for wind drift.
The final tighten sequence can be a tedious process, especially with the 4 and 6 screw caps. But it needs to be done properly or your bottles could fail.
You must keep the pressure even as the screw is tightened so that it doesn’t distort and put pressure on just one part of the scope tube. Take your time and make 1/8th and 1/16th turns as needed until you reach the 15-20 in-lbs of torque required to seat the cap screws.
Once again, be sure to do the proper torque checking and make sure all the screws are in place properly before you start the laser welding process. Once you’re certain the welds have been made correctly, you can begin laser welding the parts together.
There are some products that can be purchased from retail shops that are designed to get rid of those annoying fine lines and wrinkles. For people that really want to get rid of those little wrinkles, then the absolute zero laser can be used to do the job.
|Max Velocity||750 fps|
|Buttplate||Soft rubber recoil pad|
|Scopeable||Weaver & 11mm dovetails|
|Suggested for||Small game hunting/target practice|
|Max Shots per Fill||25|
|Fixed/adj. power||Multiple settings|
|Cylinder Size||180 cc|
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